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1. Shift onto the smallest chain ring and onto the largest sprocket on the cassette.
2. Remove the chain from the chain ring and let it hang loosely on the bottom bracket shell.
3. Completely unscrew both Allen bolts on the non-drive crank arm. Picture 2
4. Unscrew the end cap using an end cap tool such as a TL-FC 16. Picture 3 Then push up the stopper plate and pin with a narrow screw driver, thereby removing the pin from its locator hole at the end of the axle. Picture 4
5. Gently ease the left-hand crank arm off the axle. Picture 5 If the arm doesn’t come off easily you can carefully tap it with a rubber hammer until it’s loose.
Tip: On some cranks there are small rubber seals /spacers present between the bottom bracket shell and cups. Please be careful not to lose these during the assembly or removal of the cranks.
6. Now pull on the drive side crank and it should easily pull out of the bottom bracket shell. Picture 6 If it is a little stiff you can again give it a gentle tap with a rubber hammer.
7. Clean the bearing cups from the outside before removal. Picture 7 Using a compatible bottom bracket cup removal tool such as the Park Tool BBT-19, place it snugly over each cup and turn anti-clockwise using a spanner or wrench to unscrew. The left-hand cup has a right-hand thread and the right-hand cup a left-hand thread.
8. Now pull out the bearing cups together with the inner plastic protective sleeve. Picture 8
Check if the bearings themselves run smoothly and are not noisy. If a bearing has seized, it must be replaced. Tip:Also examine the crank axle for grooves caused by wear and tear. If grooves are present, then the entire crank must be replaced. If you are uncertain about how to judge how bad such wear and tear grooves really are, then send us clear photos of the damage and contact us via e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll be pleased to help you.
10. Replace each bearing into the cup as removed including the plastic spacers if present.
11. Grease contact points on the axle and the splined end. Picture 12 Fit the protective plastic sleeve onto one of the bearing cups.
12. Now screw in both bearing cups by hand as tightly as you can without using any tools. Picture 13
13. Now tighten both bearing cups using Park Tool BBT-19. Make sure that you tighten the cups with the correct torque, as indicated by the manufacturer. Tip:Also make sure that the tool is fitted snugly onto the cups so that it doesn’t slip off while tightening.
14. Wipe off any excess grease.
15. Now the clean and greased cranks can be fitted. Picture 14
16. Now push the axle through the bottom bracket and tap it gently with your hand, so it goes right in.
18. Screw in the end cap in gently by hand and then tighten it with the TL-FC 16 tool (from around 0.7 up to 1.5 Nm). Picture 17 Then tightenthe plastic screw with Shimano tool TL-FC 16 with 1 Nm.
19. Now push in the stopper plate and pin.
20. Put the chain back on the chain ring.
21. Now finally tighten the two Allen key bolts to the torque recommended by the manufacturer. Picture 18
Number of spacers mountainbike:
68mm width of bottom bracket: 3x2,5mm Spacer
68mm width of bottom bracket: with E-Type: E-Type plate + 2x2,5mm Spacer
73mm width of bottom bracket: with E-Type: without spacer
73mm width of bottom bracket: without E-Type: 1x2,5mm spacer
Roadbike bottom brackets do not have spacer.
Arrangement of spacer:
68mm bottom bracket: without E-Type 1x left and 2xright
68mm bottom bracket: with E-Type 1x left and 1x right
73mm bottom bracket without E-Type 1x right Spacer
73mm bottom bracket with E-Type no spacer
Roadbike without spacer
Always mind the manuals of the manufacturers. Never use copper paste on a bicycle.
Picture 13: First, attach the bottom brackets loosely without tool. Then tighten them with the correct torque