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1. First remove the brake caliper. Press both sides of the caliper inwards so that the brake blocks come into contact with the rim. Then unscrew the bolt at the rear of the fork crown and pull it out. Shimano and SRAM brakes are fitted with a 5mm Allen key bolt, Campagnolo brakes are fitted with a Torx 25 bolt from 2010 onwards.
2. Remove the wheel. To do this you’ll need either to release the brake caliper or deflate the tyre. On The quick release mechanism on Shimano and SRAM brakes is on the brake caliper and on Campagnolo brakes it’s fitted to the brake lever.
3. Slacken the two stem bolts which secure the fork steerer.
In the case of conventional headsets unscrew the headset bolt and remove the Ahead cap. If you are using a headset with the i-Lock system remove the finishing cap from the top of the fork steerer.
4. You can now remove the stem with the handlebar still connected.
Caution: The fork can now easily drop out of the frame.
5. If you have an i-Lock headset, remove the bearing cases and the spacers.
6. The fork is now ready to be removed from the heat tube. If you can’t pull out the fork easily, give the top of the fork steerer a gentle tap with a rubber hammer to free it.
7. Now carefully pull the fork out of the head tube.
9. Now take the bearing cases off the fork steerer. Tip: Note the exact order the bearings and spacers are positioned on the fork shaft. This makes reassembly much easier later on.
10. Clean the fork steerer and bearings with a soft, dry wooly cloth. Check al the parts for damages. Damage bearings should be replaced. The cleaned bearings should also be easy to move.
1. Apply grease sparingly to the bearings and the bearing seats. The grease doesn’t just lubricate, it also repels both water and dirt. Warning: Ensure when refitting carbon forks that grease doesn’t come into contact with the area of the fork steerer on which the stem is clamped.
2. First push the lower bearings onto the shaft, then the fork must be pushed up into the head tube. When this is complete, you can then fit the upper bearing parts onto the shaft.
3. Fit the bearings into the relevant casings. Ensure the correct fitting and position of all the relevant parts. Most headsets are nowadays fitted with plastic conical compression rings.
4. Wipe off excess grease.
5. Now fit the spacers (according to your preferences) and stem.
6. If using the i-Lock headset unscrew the grub screw and press on the top cap. When using Ahead stems you simply fit the stem cap.
7. Adjust the headset. When adjusting a conventional headset you slowly tighten the headset bolt in the stem cap. Then tighten the two stem bolts to the correct torque. When adjusting an i-Lock headset you first tighten the two stem bolts to the correct torque. Then you tighten the small grub screw on the side of the two bearing cases. As you tighten the screw the two bearing cases are forced against each other and headset play is reduced.
8. Now fit the front wheel and tighten the quick release.
9. Now the front brake must be refitted to the fork. Push the threaded bolt through the hole in the fork crown. Then tighten the counter nut with a 5mm Allen key (Torx25 tool for Campagnolo brakes from 2010). Please ensure that you tighten all bolts to the torque indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions.
10. Close the brake quick release.
11. Shimano brakes have a special bolt with which you can centre you brakes perfectly. SRAM and Campagnolo brakes can be centered using a little spanner
12. The brake blocks must have at least 1mm clearance to the tyre and when the brake is applied the entire surface of the brake block must come into contact with the rim.
Ensure that all bolts and screws are tightened to the correct torque. The correct torque is indicated on the component itself, in the bike manual provided with your new bike, or here in the Technical Support Center. Do not apply grease on carbon parts.
Do not attempt to remove the cone on the bottom of the fork shaft. This cone is glued to the fork and can not be removed.