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SERVICE CHAT TALK TO THE PEOPLE THAT BUILD YOUR BIKE:
CHAT ER IKKE TILGÆNGELIG LIGE NU. VI ER SNART ONLINE IGEN.
The chain is a wear and tear part that is exposed to water and dirt. The service life of the chain depends on the intensity of use. A worn chain often results in imprecise shifting and extremely worn chains can jump over sprockets and even snap. A worn chain can also cause damage to the sprockets and chainrings. Then the chain must be replaced.
In order to fit the chain you need a standard chain rivet. For Campagnolo you need a special Campagnolo UT-CN300 for 11-speed chains.
TIP: In order to measure the amount of chain wear there are special tools available. This tool is simply placed inside one of the chain links. If the thorn on the other side of the tool drops fully into the link, then the chain has stretched and must be replaced. On the upper image you can see a tool in a worn and fully functional chain. Picture 1
1. When doing work on the chain you need a chain rivet. In order to replace the chain first you must take the old one off. Position the chain rivet on one of the links and push out the rivet from the other side. Picture 2 For Campagnolo 11-speed chains a special Campagnolo chain tool is required.
2. In order to feed in the new chain, you shift the derailleur onto the position of the smallest sprocket on the cassette. Then when you fit the new chain, it is immediately under tension. Ensure when feeding the chain through the rear derailleur cage that the chain enters above the little nipple on the outside of the derailleur cage. Picture 3
3. Some road bike chains have a pre-set direction of travel. Ensure that you fit these chains the correct way round. The side with the marked chain links must be on the outside (derailleur side), otherwise this will result in difficulties when shifting.
The following road bike chains have a pre-set direction of travel:
• Dura Ace from 2009 / 7900
• Ultegra from 2010 / 6700
• 105 from 2011
4. Now determine the correct chain length. First position the chain on the small front chainring. The correct chain length is achieved when the rear derailleur cage is slightly under tension. Picture 4 Tip: If in doubt, use the old chain to calculate the chain length you need.
5. Shorten the new chain by removing links until you achieve the desired length. Picture 5 Only shorten the chain on the end where there is an inner-plate and always remove an even number of links, so that one end of the chain always has an inner-plate. Attention! Never remove a link that has already been riveted.
6. When riveting the new chain it is best to remove the rear wheel. This gives you more room to work and the chain is then not under any tension. The alternative method is to rest the chain onto the frame on the bottom bracket shell. Now push both ends of the chain together and then insert the rivet into the hole, adding a drop of oil. Picture 6
7. And this is how it now looks and the chain is ready to be riveted. #590_detail.jpg##Picture 7#Picture 8
9. Now break off the part of the rivet that is jutting out on the other side of the link. Picture 9
10. Now check the link for smooth function. If the link is stiff, then you can free it by bending it to and fro. Now the rear wheel can be re-fitted. Picture 10
Your chain should be properly riveted, as it would otherwise tear under stress.