- Strive CF
- Strive AL
- Spectral CF
- Spectral AL 29
- Spectral AL
- Nerve AL 29
- Nerve AL
- Lux CF 29
- Grand Canyon CF SLX 29
- Grand Canyon CF SL 29
- Grand Canyon CF 29
- Grand Canyon AL SLX 29
- Grand Canyon AL 29
- Yellowstone AL 29
- Dude CF
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SERVICE CHAT PRATA MED MÄNNISKORNA SOM BYGGT DIN CYKEL:
CHATTEN ÄR INTE TILLGÄNGLIG JUST NU. VI ÄR STRAX TILLBAKA.
The headset is a revolving mechanism used to connect the fork, the stem, the handlebar and the front wheel. This part must be easy to turn. Shocks from bumpy road surfaces place a lot of stress on the head set bearings. This can cause the head set to become loose and out of adjustment. The head set should not have any noticeable play.
1. Check the play by wrapping your fingers around the upper bearing case and upper part of the fork as shown in the image. Picture 1
2. Pull the front brake lever with your other hand and push your Canyon to and fro.
3. If the bearings have excess play, the bearing case will move around on the head tube.
4. Another way of checking for excess play is to lift the front wheel off the ground and then gently drop it. If there really is play you’ll hear a rattling sound.
5. In order to check the smooth operation of the bearings you’ll need to lift the frame with one hand until the front wheel has no contact with the ground. Turn the handlebar from left to right. The front wheel must move smoothly from left to right without sticking. The slightest of touches should be sufficient to move the handlebar, which should then move from left to right under its own weight.
In the case of this system a star-fangled-wedge clamps inside the fork steerer. If the wedge presses against the fork steerer tube with too much force then it will be more difficult to turn the fork. If there is too little force, the fork steerer will rattle inside the head tube. By using the adjusting bolt on the headset cap you can adjust the pressure the star-fangled-wedge exerts on the fork steerer, which also determines bearing play.
This is how you adjust the AHEADSET:
1. Slacken the stem bolts as shown in the image. Picture 2
2. Carefully tighten the counter-sunk bolt with an Allen key as shown. Picture 3
3. Straighten the stem so that the handlebar isn’t off at an angle.
4. Tighten the stem bolts to the correct torque again.
5. Now carry out the check for play already explained. The bearings should not be adjusted too tight. Position yourself in front of your Canyon and clamp the front wheel between your legs. Grip the handlebar and try to twist the handlebar. If the handlebar moves, you’ll need to tighten the stem bolts again.
1. Slacken the grub screw (with a 2mm Allen key, from 2011 models Torx T6) on the i-Lock headset. Then slacken the bolts on the stem. Picture 2
2. Press down on the stem. Now straighten the handlebar. Look from behind down over the stem and front wheel. Tighten the stem bolts again to the required torque. Now all you have to do is tighten the i-Lock grub screw Picture 4 until you feel a light resistance. This reduces the amount of bearing play. When you are done check for excess bearing play again.
3. When the headset is correctly adjusted, there’ll be a slight gap between the i-Lock bearing casings visible. Picture 5 When you tighten the grub screw the upper casing slides against the lower one thereby forcing it downwards and this reduces the amount of bearing play.
There should be no play around the headset, as the fork bearings could become damaged. Therefore check regularly that there is no play. Check that all screws and bolts have the correct tightening torque. You will find the correct figures on the components themselves, in the Operating Manual or here in the Tech Support Centre.