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Having trust in the quality of your equipment is good, but it’s always best to be on the safe side and check important components at regular intervals even if your road bike is running perfectly.
As the adage goes, “Never change a running system”. This applies especially to the brakes and shift system. If these are working perfectly, then don’t adjust anything. You should, however, regularly check the following components.
2. Headset play: A loose headset causes imprecise steering and banging noises. This will show you how to check the function of your headset easily: Lift your bike by the top tube until the front wheel is hanging in the air. Now give the handlebar a gentle shove with your free hand as shown. Picture 3 The front end of your bike must swing from side to side under its own weight. Now let the front wheel back down onto the ground. Press on the headset with your thumb and index finger and pull the front brake with your other hand. Now wiggle the bike back and forth and you will feel it immediately if there is any excess play in the headset. Picture 4
This is how you adjust a loose headset:
2. Press down on the stem.
Now straighten the handlebar making sure it is bang in line with the front wheel. Picture 7 Now retighten the stem bolts to the required torque. Now all you need to do is retighten the grub screw on the i-Lock headset until you feel light resistance. Now check the headset again for excessive play.
When the i-Lock headset is correctly adjusted, there will be a slight gap between the two bearing cases. Picture 8
3. Retighten the stem bolts.
4. Quick-release check. Check both the front and rear quick releases. Tighten the quick-releases hand tight. The levers should point upwards when they are fully tight so that they don’t catch on things.
5. The seat post needs fresh carbon assembly paste from time to time so that it can slide easily inside the seat tube. However, it is important to clean both the seat post and tube thoroughly first. First remove the seat post and wash the paste off with a cloth. Then clean the inside of the seat tube. Try to get down as far into the tube as you can with a cloth. Picture 9 Now apply fresh carbon assembly paste to the seat post. If you have an alloy frame and seat post, use conventional assembly paste instead of carbon assembly paste.
6. If the chain rattles or is hesitant in shifting onto the next sprocket, then this is most probably caused by a slightly stretched shift cable. This often happens to road bikes after only a short period of use. You can, however, remedy the problem in just a few seconds by slightly adjusting the tensioning bolts (turning anti-clockwise) which are (depending on the make of groupset) either fitted on the down tube Picture 10 or on the derailleur itself Picture 11. It’s often just the case of making a quarter of a turn and the derailleur will operate at 100% efficiency again. Warning: Only adjust the shift system when it is really necessary. If it isn’t broken, then don’t fix it!
7. Anyone who rides a lot on mountain passes will experience a high level of wear and tear on the brake blocks. The greater the wear on the brake blocks, the greater the travel on the brake levers will be. This can lead to a significant reduction in braking efficiency. You should therefore occasionally adjust the position of your brake blocks. This is quite easily done using the tensioning bolt on the brake caliper. Increase the cable tension by turning the tensioning bolt clockwise. Picture 12
8. In order to achieve maximum performance from your bike, the chain should always be kept clean and well lubricated. Clean your chain by pulling it through a clean cloth and then lubricate it. Ensure that every link gets sufficient lubrication. Let the oil briefly soak in and then remove excess oil with the cloth.
Ensure that all bolts and screws are tightened to the correct torque. The correct torque is indicated on the component itself, in the bike manual provided with your new bike, or here in the Technical Support Center. .