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Adjusting of rear derailleur
Your derailleur was carefully adjusted by the Canyon Team before it left our factory. However, during the first few kilometers of use the shift cables can stretch slightly which can have a negative effect on shift precision. The chain is then often hesitant in shifting into the next sprocket on the cassette), especially in critical situations.
Adjusting the rear derailleur
2. Check after every tensioning whether the chain shifts onto the next sprocket on the cassette without hesitation. In order to do this you’ll have to turn the cranks by hand or go for a short test ride on your Canyon.
3. If the chain shifts easily up the cassette onto the bigger sprockets, you’ll need to check that the chain moves equally as smoothly down the cassette onto the smallest sprockets. In order to achieve an optimum adjustment you mind need several attempts.
4. On road bikes it is often possible to even make small adjustments to the cable tension of the shift levers. There are adjustable arresters on the down tube for this purpose.
Adjusting the limit stop
In order to prevent the chain or the rear derailleur from striking the spokes or the chain from coming off the smallest sprocket, the range of movement is limited by so-called stroke adjusting screws. This range of movement should not change during normal use. However, after crashes or when you start using other wheels with your Canyon you should check the operation of your rear derailleur again.
1. Shift onto the largest gear (big chain ring at the front and smallest sprocket on the cassette. The shift cable is then slack. Look from the rear at the cassette and check if the pulley wheels in the rear derailleur cage are positioned exactly in line with the edges of the sprocket teeth.
2. If this isn’t the case, then you must adjust the position of your derailleur using the stroke adjusting screws. On most derailleurs the screws are marked with “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear. The high gear means in this case a large gear size, i.e. a small sprocket.
3. If there are no screws marked, then you’ll have to use trial and error. Simply turn a screw, being sure you count how many times you turn it and observe what happens to the derailleur. If it doesn’t move, then you’re turning the wrong screw. Now turn back the screw you have just turned the same number of turns.
4. Turn the screw in a clockwise direction if the pulley wheel cage needs to be moved further in towards the spokes, or anticlockwise if the pulley wheel cage needs to be positioned further outwards.
5. Shift onto the largest sprocket on the cassette. You’ll need to be careful when doing this in order to prevent the derailleur cage striking the spokes.
6. If the derailleur cage does come into contact with the spokes, then you should use the stroke adjusting screws to limit its movement. Turn the “L” screw until any contact between derailleur cage and spokes is completely excluded.
7. Now observe the position of the derailleur cage in relation to the largest sprocket on the cassette. There should be at least two chain links clearance between the top of the pulley wheel and the teeth on the sprocket.
8. The rear derailleur is fitted with a screw to adjust the clearance between the upper pulley wheel and the sprocket. This rests on the front edge of the rear drop out. Campagnolo rear derailleurs have this screw on the derailleur cage. To check whether the adjustment is correct turn the cranks backwards. The upper pulley wheel should not come into contact with the sprocket teeth even under these extreme circumstances. Picture 3
9. If the clearance is still not sufficient and the pulley comes into contact with the sprocket teeth and negatively affects shift performance, then you’ll need to remove a link from the chain. Then the derailleur will be under greater tension. If the chain is shortened, you must then ensure that the chain can still be operated on the large chain ring at the front as well as the largest sprocket on the cassette.